This week in our series on New Zealand's coffee-roasting industry, we chat to Dan Brown of Underground Coffee, our first South Island roastery.
With 16 years under its belt, Christchurch’s Underground is still one of the younger major roasteries in New Zealand, but it’s already seen its fair share of bumps in the road. Starting out quite literally underground, in the basement of a Cashmere café now known as ‘The Cup’, the roastery has relocated several times in the last 10 years in the wake of the Canterbury earthquakes. These days, they call 190 Durham Street, in central Christchurch, their home.
Throughout such tumultuous times, though, the team at Underground have always maintained their commitment to their niche as a roastery. Dan Brown runs wholesale and retail for Underground. “90% of our coffee offerings are tailored with the espresso machine in mind,” Dan told R&C Magazine. “We have always been, and always will be, a Full City coffee roaster.”
‘Full City’ refers to a roast somewhere between a medium and a dark roast, also known as a ‘light espresso’ or ‘Continental’ roast. It’s a notably darker roast than those purveyed by many of Underground’s contemporaries in the specialty coffee scene, who are increasingly opting for lighter and more delicate roasts. This is no accident on the part of Underground. “We are unashamedly proud of our origins,” said Dan, “although we build functionality into our blends, so soft brew methods can shine through too.”
This steadfast approach has seen Underground stay afloat as the coffee wave grew to massive proportions. “Over the last 20 years I’ve seen the C price explode,” Dan told us, “and rightly so. As negotiation for quality and uninterrupted supply at a sustainable price has become one of most important bottom line functions for roasteries worldwide, it’s more important than ever to have congruent and respectful relationships with suppliers.”
Making a good cup of coffee is about so much more than a bearded barista and a well-oiled espresso machine, and Dan makes it clear that Underground’s job as a roastery starts long before any green bean meets the heat. “Value for us comes in the shape of duty of care for all stakeholders in the supply chain, with a strong emphasis for how people and communities are treated at the source,” said Dan. Specialty coffee is a quality product that requires care and attention, so ensuring standards are maintained across the supply chain is not just good ethics – it’s good business. As Dan says, “Care for our people equals care for our coffee.”
This awareness of the business’s impact also applies to the front-end of Underground’s operation. On the café floor, Dan told us, Underground routinely employs a simple pair of questions to guide the business: What are the customer’s needs? And what are the customer’s ‘wants’? “It’s important for us to have a healthy mix of the two so we can continue to meet and exceed customer expectations without falling too far down the rabbit hole of distractions.” Of course, it’s important to retain a sense of ownership and direction, else the dialogue between the business and its customers can turn into something of directionless feedback loop; an idea Dan succinctly ponders with an elegant turn of phrase: “Does the dog wag the tail or does the tail wag the dog?”
Looking ahead, Underground is in no hurry towards world domination, preferring an organic approach in line with its principles of quality and sustainability. “We like keeping things simple,” said Dan. “The backbone of our business is built on a partnership of trust, so we will continue to spread this message nationally.”
Mural by American artist Buff Monster, featured on the side of Underground's Durham Street, Christchurch store.
