Tako Yang has taken his passion for culinary excellence to new standards at Gaja, one of Ponsonby's most popular eateries.
Born in Korea and raised in New Zealand, Tako Yang has spent the past 14 years cooking.
Ten of those years were spent perfecting Japanese cuisine, while another four he spent slinging burgers.
Throughout his career so far, Yang said he has met many good people along the way and has learned even more from his previous restaurants, including Ebisu, Harbourside, Waterfront, and Burger Burger.
It was at this point in his career that Yang wanted to try something different, and step away from kitchens for a bit. At this exact moment, his business partner, TJ, presented an idea to open GAJA.
According to Yang, the pitch was very simple, and the restaurant would share Korean drinking and dining culture with as many people as possible, but do it in its own way. He said it was a place for honest flavours with no rulebook. This was enough to pull him back in.
Yang said it's less about chefs and more about the vibe of Korean drinking culture that inspires him, highlighting the chaotic, loud tables where everyone is sharing and not taking it too seriously.
“Korean food doesn't separate fun from flavour, and that's what we're chasing. Locally, Auckland's diversity inspires us daily. We want GAJA to feel like that bridge, familiar enough to be comfortable, Korean enough to be real,” he said.
The biggest move that Yang has made at GAJA wasn’t necessarily flashy. Instead, it was getting ruthlessly clear.
After four years of experimenting and experiencing, Yang and the team stripped back everything. He said every dish was rebuilt, including better costing, sharper flavours, and less fuss. He ditched the unnecessary garnishes and focused on what actually matters: innovation by subtraction, which he said was basically less noise and more taste.
The menu at GAJA is full of Korean flavours reimagined with what is around in New Zealand. Yang said two dishes that define GAJA are the Pork Belly and Crispy Eggplant, which are the originals from the tiny test kitchen days.
“Both have depth, heat, crunch, and balance, built to pull people in without trying too hard. Nothing on the menu is filler. Every plate connects. Together, they tell you who we are: confident, grounded, flavour-first.”
Keeping quality and soul alive while everything gets more expensive and quieter is something Yang said the industry is challenged by. He said diners are smarter and more value-conscious now, so businesses can’t hide behind the hype of inflated prices.
“We feel like the places that'll survive are the ones delivering real flavour and honest experiences. Simplicity and clarity will outlast the trends.”
For those just starting their journey into the world of hospitality, Yang said don’t follow trends; instead, chase consistency. He added that it was important to learn the whole business, not just the cooking, and it was important to never fake it.
“People can taste it when you’re being real, and they can taste it when you’re not.”
Opening GAJA and watching it grow from an idea into something people actually care about has been the highlight of his career, as well as seeing regulars come back week after week, and hearing people get excited about Korean food in a new way.
“That’s the stuff that matters. It’s pretty gold.”
His goals for the future are to keep learning and keep evolving, as a business and as people. He would like to keep trying to express something real through his food, and to make every day solid.
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