New Zealand’s First Contemporary Samoan Restaurant

Manja Wachsmuth

New Zealand’s only restaurant dedicated to contemporary Samoan cuisine, TALA, is to open in late October in the Auckland suburb of Parnell.

TALA is the creation of Samoan-born chef, Henry Onesemo (ex-Meredith’s, Apero and East St. Hall) and wife Debby. It will blend traditional Samoan hospitality with a contemporary interpretation of Samoan flavours for a unique dining experience.

The new TALA restaurant will be at 235 Parnell Road (formerly the site of Pasture). It will seat approximately 28 diners inside, and a bar deck will open in Summer 2023/24. Confirmation of the site follows a sell-out TALA pop-up dining series at Auckland’s Bar Magda in June this year. 

Onesemo said that the space is perfect to transform into the new restaurant.

“I can’t wait to welcome our guests into a fun dining atmosphere where they’ll be able to see all the action of the kitchen and to introduce them to a fresh perspective on the diverse range of Samoan flavours and ingredients,” said Onesemo.

Open-fire cooking and an umu (a traditional Samoan above-ground oven of hot stones) will be central to TALA. The Samoan word “tala” means “story” or “tale”, and Henry will combine these ancient practices with modern cooking techniques to tell his own tales of Samoa through dishes inspired by his Samoan heritage and childhood, but revisited and refined. 

Architecture and interior studio Seear-Budd Ross has created a new design for TALA, which is sophisticated and contemporary. 

Manja Wachsmuth

The dining experience is enhanced by the flicker of flames from the open-fire range and the delicate smoke aroma of the umu. Guests seated for the Chef’s Journey will also be treated to an up-close experience of TALA with views into the kitchen as Henry and his team prepare each dish.  Award-winning stylist Fiona Hugues is bringing special finishing touches to the TALA space, which will reflect the blend of Samoan culture and traditions with Henry’s contemporary approach to its cuisine.

Thomas Seer-Budd and James Ross of Seear-Budd Ross said that the restaurant was critical to ensure the space avoided cliché and tokenism.

“Guests are enveloped in a cave-like atmosphere while deep textured timber, soft earthy fabrics and intimate lighting artfully direct one’s focus to the exquisite food. It's a space you could happily enjoy for hours and hours, and then return to again and again. The lasting impression of TALA is of a dining  experience that is special and will endure in the memory.”

The TALA menu will offer a choice of dining ‘journeys’, with each one a series of dishes inspired by different elements of Samoan food heritage from Onesemo’s own experience growing up in Samoa, as well as traditional story-telling. Traditional aspects of Samoan life will also be woven into the TALA experience, beginning with guests receiving an offering as they arrive at the restaurant space.

Menu highlights will include showcasing dishes cooked in the traditional umu in front of diners, such as Spatchcock Chicken. The brined and spatchcocked chicken will be wrapped in banana leaves with herbs and citrus and cooked in the hot stones in view of the restaurant.

 “The timing of this dish has to be precise and leaves no room for mistakes because it is to be unveiled in the middle of service as one of the main dishes on the menu,” said Onesemo.  

Other menu items will include a dish inspired by childhood snacks of raw ramen, taro and banana chips; the fresh flavours of cured salmon with coconut, wasabi, sago and green banana; the feasting dish of Sapasui with lamb and pork belly; and ‘Umu  Sweets’ as tasty treats to finish.  

The owners have also built a relationship with the Hospitality faculty at MSL Training in Manukau, and were thrilled to work with Pasifika students at the Bar Magda pop-up dinners.  Going forward, the couple plans to offer students employment opportunities where possible at TALA.